Sun, New Friends, Tapas, Late Nights...

As I'm trying to get in all of the last bits of Spain I can before leaving, this last weekend was no disappointment. I was invited to a pool barbeque in a small village about forty-five minutes outside of Madrid called Guadalajara. There isn't too much to see or do in Guadalajara but it is a quintessential small-town pueblo for families that prefer to live outside of the city, or for people that have a summer home where it is slightly cooler than in central Madrid.

One of my favorite aspects of Spanish life, which I have been very fortunate to experience often, is the friendliness towards new people. Many will argue that Spaniards are open and friendly in the street, but that it takes a lot for them to invite you into their homes. If this is true, perhaps it is because those that live in the city live in apartments where it just isn't logical to invite people in. In any case, throughout my years in Madrid, I have had the incredible pleasure to be invited into families' homes; many times these have been the homes of friend's parents that live in larger homes outside of the city center. And each time, even in my earliest days here when my ease with the language was moot, I have been welcomed in as if we had known each other for ever. 

The same went for this past Saturday. I have recently gotten to know the Spanish roomate of an American friend of mine, and he invited both of us on Saturday to his friends' family birthday celebration. We spent about seven hours in a very familial setting where we felt nothing less than part of the family. Just below is a photo of their backyard, which they built themselves. We arrived, made out introductions, had a couple beers, went swimming... then sat down at a big outdoor table where we served about seven courses of salad and various BBQ plates. Everyone full and happy! After lunch, a few people had a much needed quick siesta on a lawn chair before we all went swimming again. We were my two friends, the birthday boy who was turning 35, his wife, their one-year-old son, the grandparents, a sister and brother, and two more friends of theirs. A truly beautiful day! Then we all met again at a terrace bar after returning to Madrid to continue the birthday celebration.

Michelle and I enjoying the sun at the beautiful home in Guadalajara


After having a quick drink with the group that I had enjoyed the day with, I went to meet up with two other friends as we had planned to go out that night. We went to one of my favorite Madrid spots, Fortuny, which never hosts a dull moment in the summer months due to its massive outdoor terrace area. Fortuny is considered to be the most expensive street in Madrid, so it's no surprise that this night-spot is swarming with Madrid's poshest. The building used to be a mansion that was converted into a nightclub. We stayed until about 6am. I don't have these late nights too often anymore, but as they won't exist once I return home, I have no other option but to to take advantage while I still can!

The terrace at one of my favorite Madrid nightspots, Fortuny (not a great photo)

I have become quite accustomed to the Spanish schedule. Even after a night lasting until 6am, I am always awake and active the following day. After all, the city has so much to do.. I just hate missing even one day! On Sunday, I awoke and went for a "tapas crawl." I wanted to make sure to have some of my favorite tapas before heading back home. One of my absolute top favorite things about living in Spain is that meals don't have to mean sitting at only one place. Instead, it is often typical to stop at 4-5 places for a beer or wine and a different tapa. Never boring! Below is a photo of one of my favorite typical summer dishes, Salmorejo. It originates in Cordoba, Andalucia and many foreigners mistake it for gazpacho, but in fact it is much richer. Typical ingredients are tomatoes, garlic, oil, bread, but they always vary depending on who is preparing it. Then, tiny pieces of hard boiled egg and ham are sprinkled on top. Cold soups are perfect for the intense summer heat.

Salmorejo

After a few tapas, I headed over to a lovely spot to spend the afternoon. Casa De Campo features a lake, plenty of bikers, restaurants around the lake, and plenty of madrileños trying to escape the heat, as it tends to be slightly cooler there. The park is Madrid's largest, and was first utilized as a royal hunting ground due to its close proximity to the Madrid Royal Palace. During the Spanish Civil War 1936-1939, many battles were fought there, and finally after the war, it was donated to the Madrid public where it has since been enjoyed as a place for people to relax in nature.

Lake at Casa de Campo

View of the Royal Palace from Casa de Campo. Due to this close proximity, King Felipe II used it as a hunting ground when he transferred the Spanish Court from Toledo to Madrid in the 1560's

After the relaxing afternoon at Casa de Campo catching up with an old friend, I finished the day at the Conde Duque Cultural Center's Outdoor Summer Movie Festival. Conde Duque is an immense wooden building which served as the barracks of the Royal Guards Corp since 1717 and later was converted into a Cultural Center in 1983. It is one of my favorite spots in Madrid because it houses a vast library, constantly changing exhibits, and various cultural activities like theater and wine tastings. During these summer months, it has converted its central plaza into an "Urban Beach" with food trucks, bars, activities, and lounge chairs.

Watching the movie under the madrileño sky with the moon making its cycle just above was the perfectly peaceful way to end the weekend. Walking home at midnight after the movie ended, Madrid was at her finest with a perfect temperature, people walking their dogs, lights on, jazz music playing from various apartments, people continuing to eat and drink on the terraces..... Longer days and an eating and sleeping schedule unique only to Spain mean that there is almost always time for everything....

"Cine de Verano" in the Conde Duque Cultural Center

Classical Theater in a Spanish Pueblecito

Amongst Spain's big cities, lie a ton of small "pueblos" which resemble villages. Almost everyone in Spain has a pueblo, a place that either they are from or their family is from. The pueblos are quite small ranging from 600 to 30,000 people. People often go to their pueblos for the holidays or to spend some part of the summer, where they see family and old friends, go out to bars, to the pool, and just hang out living the simple life.

During the weekend of July 10th, I went to a tiny pueblo called Almagro which is in the region of Ciudad Real. The pictures below give an idea of what pueblos generally look like. They are comprised of older buildings with lots of places for eating, drinking, and just hanging out.

This past weekend we went to Almagro for a very exciting reason. Each year there is a very prestigious festival called Almagro Festival de Teatro Clasical. For several weeks, there are endless classical theatre plays which mainly represent la Edad de Oro of Spain, or the Golden Age, when playrights like Lope de Vega and Tirso de Molina were at their maximum. The festival in Almagro also sprinkles in other types of classical theatre. In fact Tim Robbins himself came to direct "El Sueno de un noche del verano," or better known as "A Midsummer Night's Dream."

On the first night of the festival, we saw what turned out to be one of my favorite plays I have ever seen, called "La Carcel," or "The Jail." 

Inside the open-air theater, "Corral de Comedias"

The actors of "La Carcel" during the curtain call.

The play was conducted in Old Castellano, which would be like our version of Shakespeare's English, so naturally a lot of the dialogue went over my head, but the body movements, the facial gestures, and the actor's incredible physical timing led me to absolutely love the production. Taking place hundreds of years ago in a jail, the men within the jail are beside themselves over one man's condemnation to death row. In the end, he makes it. through an incredible series of comedy along the way. The second evening we saw a Zarzuela show, which is a unique style of opera-musical.

In the audience waiting for the Zarzuela show to begin

When we weren't in the theaters, we were relaxing at the community pool and eating and drinking in the central Plaza Mayor. I was in the company of a great group of Spanish friends who are all slightly older than me, in their 40's and 50's. In Spain, 40's and 50s is like 20s in United States. They are intensely alive, they are constantly out and about meeting with friends, and they enjoy socializing until all hours of the evening. With them, I always eat and drink very well as they know the best wines and typical plates of every restaurant. We drank bottles of red wine and ate plates of the typcial cheese from that pueblo.

Copas in the Plaza Mayor after an evening of theatre

An intense feeling of sadness and regret overcame me this weekend, despite the great time. I realized that perhaps I made a mistake in deciding to go back to USA this year. A major part of my decision was that 30 is considered to be quite old in USA and I was feeling pressure to come back and begin a very serious, rigid life. This weekend in Almagro reminded of how young I am and how many more years I have to enjoy, and somehow that in Spain, we can remain much younger much longer. My friends noticed how well Spain suits me and how happy I am here. Perhaps I shouldn't have decided to leave so soon....

La Penúltima

La Penúltima is one of my favorite expressions which is utilized often in Spain. 
It's literal meaning is "the second to last" but it's figurative meaning (in my 
experience) has always been that anything can happen and that that it is up to
us to let fun and surprises come our way. 

This expression is used very often in bars. If you have had a couple of drinks and 
reclaim yourself to say "Ok, La última" or "now let's order the last one," the kind
waiter or whomever your company is will always say "No, la PENúltima." I adore
this expression and this style of being because it means that we can never
proclaim the last because we never know what will actually happen. I can't
remember how many times my "penúltima" turned into an entire night out meeting
new people after having had the intention of one single afternoon drink, or
leading to becoming a "regular" in yet another friendly neighborhood establishment.

"La penúltima" has been the cause of some of my greatest days in Spain

and some of my dearest friends who were met completely unexpectedly.

I just returned to Madrid yesterday for La Penúltima time as a Madrid resident. I returned from nine days in Portugal, 

and this is now my last little stint in Madrid before moving to USA. I always love returning
 to Madrid after trips, and when I arrived in Plaza Cibeles after this Portuguese adventure
, I realized that it was the last time I would feel the thrill of returning to my Madrileno 
home... but then, I reminded myself that of course it isn't the last time. It is La Penúltima! 
You never what the future will bring, as this joyous expression has taught me.

This is my final week in my adorable, historic studio apartment in the dead center of the 

city. For this reason, I would like to take a moment to honor all of the fun times that have 

taken place here. My charming little studio has hosted my 29th birthday gathering, 

numerous dinner parties and wine nights, and several ladies book club events. For as 

small as it is, its character and warmth are mighty, and it has endured red wine stains on 

the white walls, chairs, and couch... stains as memories of great shared moments 
among friends.

The living area + "bedroom alcove" in the back. You don't find too many apartments with well-preserved wooden beams

The kitchen area. Small but so functional.

My 29th birthday celebration in my humble abode.. an abundance of wine and laughs

"Fancy wine and apps night"

No Work and All Play....

It has been an entire week since I returned to Madrid from San Diego. The week has been a whirlwind of seeing friends, wandering the city, plenty of play, and feeling elated... This overall elation could be that I am completely free, and have never quite had this opportunity before in Madrid. Of course, I am loving the city, my friends, and everything about my life here even more than ever.. why is it so typical of humans to love something the most when we know it is fleeting?

The following pictures are from my first day of official vacation, last Friday. I awoke with pure glee, excitement to do everything I have ever wanted here and to peruse and wander without any hurry.

Chueca, the famous gay neighborhood, was whizzing with excitement for what was to be the much-anticipated Gay Pride weekend. The Gay pride parade in Madrid is the biggest in Europe, and last year was considered to be the biggest in the world. Spain is always ready for a party. Rainbow colors everywhere, gay couples vacationing from all of the world to take part in the spectacular parade and festivities of the weekend.

I didn't actually attend the parade because that many people tend to overwhelm me, plus with the inconceivable heat that has overtaken Madrid, standing amidst so many bodies didn't feel like the most appealing option. I did have to cross through the parade to get to a dinner reservation, and by the time I made it to the other side was twenty minutes late..... oh well, it was worth it for a quick piece of the world-famous celebration.

Wine bottles designed specifically for the Gay Pride weekend. As I was admiring them in the window, the store owner came out to invite me to a glass of the wine and tell me all about his vineyard and this very wine that he and his father produce themselves.

Restaurants, stores, government buildings boasting colorful flags in celebration...

Even this historic government building which was once the headquarters of Francisco Franco's Fascist regime proudly sporting a rainbow flag

One of many floats in the endless parade

Where Everyday Feels like a Celebration...

One of countless "brindis" in our favorite Madrid spot

What will I most miss about living in Spain? I will miss the sun, the food, the wine, the friendly people, chatting every day in Castello, the buildings, my job, countless things.... but perhaps the thing I will miss most of all is the everyday camaraderie, especially in the special bars that I have gotten to know so well. My very favorite bar/restaurant in the entire city is called La Monteria, in the Principe de Vergara neighborhood. The food is so delicious that it has been awarded a Michelin Star, but this is not why it's my favorite... it is my favorite because every time I go, I go with the intention to stay a long while, and because everybody, clients and bartenders alike, are happy and full of energy. 

Every time I walk into this small place which is always packed to the brim, the bartenders say "Holaaaaa!! Here is a spot for you!" Bartenders and servers in Spain are completely different than at home because they all work generally every day rather than changing shifts, and at the places which I tend to inhabit, clients are not just clients but are treated like friends and family. The clients are regulars, loyal to these spots. I have spent five hours on a Sunday-day or a Tuesday or Saturday or whichever night relaxing, eating, drinking, and laughing with friends in La Monteria. The bartenders know exactly what we like and are sure that neither our plates nor our glasses are ever empty. Even more, they are just as included in the shenanigans. On every occasion, we share either a glass of champagne or a dessert drink shot with them and celebrate yet another day of "juerga."

A champagne toast at the end of the night last Friday

One of many signature delicious dishes: Ahi Tuna

More Modern Than Picturesque...According to Papa

One of the greatest dudes of all time (on the Right): Ernest Hemingway, also known as "Papa." In the photo he is in his also beloved Spain at a bullfight. He was passionate about corridas and often referred to them in his writing.

Hemingway is perhaps my favorite author because he tells it like he sees it, and because I can relate perfectly with his adoration for Spain. Regarding Madrid, he thought it was more of a modern city than picturesque, and then after getting to know it better, believed that it was the most Spanish city of all of the Spanish city and the one in which people lived best, and that it had the best people and the best climate. 

One of the places that he often frequented in Madrid is in the Plaza Santa Ana, right next to my apartment. I often avoid this plaza despite its striking beauty because it is haunted by tourists, but sometimes, I walk through, mentally erase the crowds, and imagine the days when Hem sat there drinking a little too much, chatting, and watching the passersby.

The German beer spot in the Plaza Santa Anna which Ernest
Hemingway frequented

The Plaza Santa Ana

True that Madrid is not a picturesque city in the sense of sprawling hills nor sparkling bodies of water... but for a completely modern city, it is as picturesque as modern can be. Every building has its own style, its own beauty, and its own personality. Walking through the center, the building balconies are well-preserved filled with flowers of every color. Some buildings are sea-green, others are striking blue, and one of my favorites in the Alonso Martinez area is decorated 

in Picasso-esque designs. 

It is rare for a capitol city to be filled with the best people, and many Spaniards do say that the best people are in other spots like Andalucia where with the warm climate and laid-back life style, they are more likely to invite you into your homes. But, I agree with Hem. I have found the best people in this bustling capitol city. In this spot where all of the most important business occurs and people emigrate here from other spots, there is still a small town feel. Though there are between three and five million people here, it never feels big. It is typical to run into people you know, have conversations with strangers, or unexpectedly meet someone who becomes a very close friend. Life here is good, and that is demonstrated by the people. In this major metropolitan capitol city, small pleasures are found everywhere, and la vida is always bonita here. 

Always a Spectacle

Last night I returned to Madrid after one week away in San Diego celebrating my incredible grandmother's 90th birthday and my dear friend Lilly's beautiful wedding. Returning to my central neighborhood obviously beat after a 20-hour flight, I felt awake and excited passing by la Plaza de Cibeles and La Oficina de Correos (which are seen in the photo above). Madrid never disappoints and ALWAYS surprises! The lights around the fountain felt like a magnficent re-welcome to the city, and then when I noticed the rainbow flag hanging from the Post Office (not seen in the photo), I realized that the striking display was in honor of Madrid's Gay Pride Week! Madrid doesn't do anything small. Every display, every act here is carried out with grandeur and pride. Everything is celebrated, and I hope to always carry this celebration of all things in life with me... wherever I go.

Spain is an incredible anomaly in a multitude of ways, one being it's overt support of gay rights. After overcoming a very long Fascist dictatorship, Spain underwent many changes very quickly. I have always found this an anomaly because in general, I have noticed Spaniards as slow to adaptation. For example, meals must be at certain times, coffee must be consumed after the meal (never before or during), flip-flop sandals are only to be worn at the beach and never in the street, and sleeveless attire is surely not acceptable until late May or early June (although temperatures are blatantly soaring by then). But perhaps when it comes to the bigger issues and social rights, they are much quicker to adapt and embrace. Spain was the 2nd country in the world to legalize gay marriage (after the Netherlands), and its vibrant gay community is alive and proud in the historic Chueca district and throughout the city. For this reason, the Plaza de Cibeles is at full illumination during this much-awaited Gay Pride Week.

This month in Madrid is special and significant to me because it represents the final month in a city and culture that have welcomed me with open arms. As the city never ceases to surprise, my years here also came as a surprise. I certainly didn't expect to spend four years here, but I suspect that my first day here led to me to realize that I was going to need much more than four months. I recall my first morning waking up in Madrid in April 2010 when I came to carry out my Student Teaching, knowing nothing about this country. I woke up in my tiny apartment in Barrio Chamberi, went outside and was swept away by the dramatic light of the sky and the hustle and bustle of the city. I walked to Starbucks (on my first day, I needed something familiar), and sat at a table outside for hours marveling at the comfort I felt on day one in a place previously completely foreign to me. Everything felt easy and natural. My Spanish was minimal but somehow the people were kind enough to try to understand and help with whatever I needed. I was at the time reading a book by John Hopper called "The New Spaniards," and upon being so impressed by the incredible light of the sky, I came across a passage explaining just this. Spain is at an especially high altitude, meaning that light is brighter, the days are longer, and the people are more jubilant. After four years here, I can attest to this truth!

Throughout this month of July(minus 10 days in Portugal), I will be re-visiting the love affair that I first had with this city. I will attempt to re-see it through my initial incredulous and virgin eyes: marvel at the architecture, history, and style of the buildings, ponder through the endless museums pertaining to every theme imaginable, eat and drink slowly and with great pleasure, spend every possible moment on the street as the locals do, and delight in the pleasures of pure everyday life. I will document this here on this blog as a bitter-sweet memory.

I may be physically leaving Madrid, but it's charm, energy, vibrance, and those of all of the people I have met, will always be within me....And Madrid is a city to return to time and time again.