I began this final month of my life in Madrid wanting to do all of the things that I hadn't had time to do before, such as as simply wander the city, relax, hang out, and eat delicious, leisurely lunches... I accomplished almost all and also left plenty for the next time:

This month, I

visited the Plaza de Toros, Madrid's very famous bull-flighting ring in Las Ventas, built in 1931 and still very much in use

Went to all of the museums I could possibly muster up the patience to enjoy. Madrid is a city with culture streaming from every corner, new exhibits, new festivals, new art, new theater popping up every week. There are also museums big and small from the most famous like The Prado which is filled with historical paintings like Velazquez and Goya, or the Reina Sofia which holds Picasso's great masterpiece "Guernica." There are very small spots like the Mapfre collection which currently features Paul Strand, an American photographer from the early 1900's, or my favorite Sorolla Museum filled with colorful paintings of people on beaches in the very house where the painter Joaquin Sorolla live.

There is the Museum of Anthropology which was founded by the great Doctor Velasco who was born in the late 1800's and was so passionate about medicine and science that he collected tons of artifacts including the skeleton of a giant, which can be seen in the museum. It is said that when his daughter died around the age of 16, he was so sad and wanted to have her at his side forever that as he was an expert in the embalming process, he embalmed her body, kept it in his office, and to his wife's horror, insisted that she sit with them at dinner once per week!
The museum featured in this picture is an enormous current Madrid triumph. It is the MAN: Museo Arqeologico Nacional, closed for years due to this enormous renovation. It features extensive floors of the human archaeology from the very beginning of Paleolithic times, approaching Egypt, Africa, and Greece. This museum requires a week to see it all. I became so overwhelmed that I simply had to leave, and head for a glass of wine....In short, for museum-goers, Madrid has it all.

When I became tired of attempting to see all of the museums, I tried as many new tapas as I could find (perhaps a few kilos heavier but who's to notice...)

This one isn't from this month but I wanted to throw it in here, because it is a prime example of Madrid as a city of surprises. I was walking home from work one afternoon when this ensemble came perusing by out of nowhere...

I wandered through all of my favorite neighborhoods noticing that no two buildings are alike and that the styles range from classic to modern...

I spent extensive time in one of my favorite spots in the city : Retiro park. This park embraces a multitude of acres right in the center of the city. Years ago, it was a park specific for the Royals, and has now become a spot for everyone to enjoy. Walking through it, there are various museums, a Crystal Palace, statues of the royals that once enjoyed it, one of the only statues in the world of Lucifer (El Angel Caida), roller-bladers (including myself), picnic-ers, a puppet theater, peacocks roaming freely, a children's playground... and plenty more to be discovered with each visit.

Enjoyed the outdoor movie cinema and "Urban Beach" several times here at the Conde Duque historical center

Walked by smelling and admiring the various indoor and outdoor food markets...

Crossed the Gran Via many times as this is where I have been living this year...

Squeezed in time for a few Catas de Vino (wine tastings)...

And continued eating Spanish foods and even more Spanish wines....

DESPITE ALL OF THESE ACTIVITIES AND PLEASURES.... the true overwhelmingly magnificent joy of this month has been all of these people below who have made Madrid the happiest place in the world for me. All of the photos below are highlights from just the past two weeks. These past two weeks in particular have been a pure whirlwind and an absolute gleeful, festive occasion. I can't wait to come back often and to continue these life-long friendships. Now that it's finally here, I am feeling a bit scared about this move because my life here is so active, there is so much to do every day, I can walk everywhere, and of course above all, for these people... but at least I know nothing has to be permanent and I will always come back.

A Last Saturday Morning

This morning I tried something completely different which I had never done before: a real, pure boxing class with gloves and all. I had always felt intimated by these classes because the people are more or less real boxers, not just the kickboxing sort that I've known before. But as I get older, I realize more and more how important it is to throw ourselves into things that make us nervous. If we don't, our days may become mundane, and most important of all, we may miss out on the greatest possibilities. 

I was invited to the boxing class by a new friend who I have become very close with just over the last few weeks. Just as I have in generally every aspect of living in Spain, I felt very welcomed into the class as a newcomer. The people were warm and friendly and I felt a genuine community. At the end of the class, everyone was to choose one exercise that everyone would do ten reps of. They were impressed and slightly hateful when I chose burpees! Thanks to the amazing gym and trainers that I have had in Madrid at the Reebok gym, burpees are now a love of mine (but never too many, of course). 

When the boxing class ended, I decided to walk the 2.5 miles home instead of take the metro. Unless you are in a hurry or the weather is terrible, walking is always the better option because you get to see the city. Throughout this walk on my final Saturday morning in this city that has taken me through so much over the past four years, I felt sad, happy, grateful, and a bit lost in nostalgia. As I strolled, I wandered through some of my old stomping-grounds from the Plaza Chamberi where I lived my very first spring here in 2010 where I was fascinated by the mounds of children that came running out of every corner to play inthe plaza at exactly 5pm every single weekday while their parents or caretakers sat at nearby cafes barely watching them (I never figured out which corners the multitudes of kids come running from; at the stroke of 5pm they just appear), where the tiny nuns always walked in pairs or trios coming out of the plaza's church, the first spot where I became a "regular," greeting the waiters each day as I walked by... I walked by parks and street benches were I once couldn't believe how much time the elderly folks spend simply sitting outside, chatting amongst themselves, and watching passersby. I remembered feeling happy for the community that they had... I passed the Plaza Olavide where I had spent numerous summer nights trying to get an outdoor table on the packed terraces and chatting away with old and new friends... I passed spots where I had had first dates and many broken hearts... I passed by one of my favorite little bars in Alonso Martinez where I often go with girlfriends and the elderly waiter never fails to give us at least one free drink because we are "chicas guapas..."

This Saturday morning walk was especially pensive because the city is the emptiest I have ever seen it. It is my very first time being here in August, and it is true when everyone says that on the first of August, everyone goes on vacation. As my friend said the other day, "Madrid esta delicioso en Agosto," and though I love the endless chatter, packed bars and restaurants, runners on the streets, people strolling, having coffee and beers in the other months, there is something so delicious to the quiet of August. Of course there are still people, but significantly less, and many places are closed for the month. 

As the majority of my time here has been downright chaotic (in every joyous sense of the word), it seems healthy to end on a slightly quieter note. I have had a chance to spend time with and say goodbye to all of the people who made Madrid a home for me, and now I have had a moment to say goodbye to the city that also welcomed itself to me and provided me with an incredibly safe, lively, walk-able, historical, surprising life for four years.

On this last Saturday morning, I finally felt a bit of the sadness which I have been trying so hard to avoid this past month. I have been surrounded this entire month by the people that have made my experience in Madrid the dream that it has been, and I have said over and over again that I am not sad because this is only an "hasta pronto" and not a goodbye, but in reality, of course I am sad. It has been a tremendous chunk of my life, having had the opportunity to live for four years on the other side of the world, and to have accumulated groups of people that have become family is not easy to just get up and leave. The goodbye parties, cards, gifts, and time that so many people have dedicated to me this last month have certified (even more so) that even if I am not living here the greater part of year, it is always my home. I have felt so much love and gratitude for these people and this city, that there is almost no room to be too sad...

And as I felt slightly nervous and comfortable upon first entering in the boxing class this morning, within five minutes I was in my element just as what happened when I began my journey in Spain. At the beginning, I was very nervous to try to speak the language, to go to places alone, to try new foods, talk to new people, but soon enough I confronted the discomforts and challenges.... and well, four years later... this is what happens when we try completely new things that seem scary at first... life just becomes that much better and you never know what you will end up gaining from having taken that first uncomfortable step and then diving in.

Sun, New Friends, Tapas, Late Nights...

As I'm trying to get in all of the last bits of Spain I can before leaving, this last weekend was no disappointment. I was invited to a pool barbeque in a small village about forty-five minutes outside of Madrid called Guadalajara. There isn't too much to see or do in Guadalajara but it is a quintessential small-town pueblo for families that prefer to live outside of the city, or for people that have a summer home where it is slightly cooler than in central Madrid.

One of my favorite aspects of Spanish life, which I have been very fortunate to experience often, is the friendliness towards new people. Many will argue that Spaniards are open and friendly in the street, but that it takes a lot for them to invite you into their homes. If this is true, perhaps it is because those that live in the city live in apartments where it just isn't logical to invite people in. In any case, throughout my years in Madrid, I have had the incredible pleasure to be invited into families' homes; many times these have been the homes of friend's parents that live in larger homes outside of the city center. And each time, even in my earliest days here when my ease with the language was moot, I have been welcomed in as if we had known each other for ever. 

The same went for this past Saturday. I have recently gotten to know the Spanish roomate of an American friend of mine, and he invited both of us on Saturday to his friends' family birthday celebration. We spent about seven hours in a very familial setting where we felt nothing less than part of the family. Just below is a photo of their backyard, which they built themselves. We arrived, made out introductions, had a couple beers, went swimming... then sat down at a big outdoor table where we served about seven courses of salad and various BBQ plates. Everyone full and happy! After lunch, a few people had a much needed quick siesta on a lawn chair before we all went swimming again. We were my two friends, the birthday boy who was turning 35, his wife, their one-year-old son, the grandparents, a sister and brother, and two more friends of theirs. A truly beautiful day! Then we all met again at a terrace bar after returning to Madrid to continue the birthday celebration.

Michelle and I enjoying the sun at the beautiful home in Guadalajara


After having a quick drink with the group that I had enjoyed the day with, I went to meet up with two other friends as we had planned to go out that night. We went to one of my favorite Madrid spots, Fortuny, which never hosts a dull moment in the summer months due to its massive outdoor terrace area. Fortuny is considered to be the most expensive street in Madrid, so it's no surprise that this night-spot is swarming with Madrid's poshest. The building used to be a mansion that was converted into a nightclub. We stayed until about 6am. I don't have these late nights too often anymore, but as they won't exist once I return home, I have no other option but to to take advantage while I still can!

The terrace at one of my favorite Madrid nightspots, Fortuny (not a great photo)

I have become quite accustomed to the Spanish schedule. Even after a night lasting until 6am, I am always awake and active the following day. After all, the city has so much to do.. I just hate missing even one day! On Sunday, I awoke and went for a "tapas crawl." I wanted to make sure to have some of my favorite tapas before heading back home. One of my absolute top favorite things about living in Spain is that meals don't have to mean sitting at only one place. Instead, it is often typical to stop at 4-5 places for a beer or wine and a different tapa. Never boring! Below is a photo of one of my favorite typical summer dishes, Salmorejo. It originates in Cordoba, Andalucia and many foreigners mistake it for gazpacho, but in fact it is much richer. Typical ingredients are tomatoes, garlic, oil, bread, but they always vary depending on who is preparing it. Then, tiny pieces of hard boiled egg and ham are sprinkled on top. Cold soups are perfect for the intense summer heat.

Salmorejo

After a few tapas, I headed over to a lovely spot to spend the afternoon. Casa De Campo features a lake, plenty of bikers, restaurants around the lake, and plenty of madrileños trying to escape the heat, as it tends to be slightly cooler there. The park is Madrid's largest, and was first utilized as a royal hunting ground due to its close proximity to the Madrid Royal Palace. During the Spanish Civil War 1936-1939, many battles were fought there, and finally after the war, it was donated to the Madrid public where it has since been enjoyed as a place for people to relax in nature.

Lake at Casa de Campo

View of the Royal Palace from Casa de Campo. Due to this close proximity, King Felipe II used it as a hunting ground when he transferred the Spanish Court from Toledo to Madrid in the 1560's

After the relaxing afternoon at Casa de Campo catching up with an old friend, I finished the day at the Conde Duque Cultural Center's Outdoor Summer Movie Festival. Conde Duque is an immense wooden building which served as the barracks of the Royal Guards Corp since 1717 and later was converted into a Cultural Center in 1983. It is one of my favorite spots in Madrid because it houses a vast library, constantly changing exhibits, and various cultural activities like theater and wine tastings. During these summer months, it has converted its central plaza into an "Urban Beach" with food trucks, bars, activities, and lounge chairs.

Watching the movie under the madrileño sky with the moon making its cycle just above was the perfectly peaceful way to end the weekend. Walking home at midnight after the movie ended, Madrid was at her finest with a perfect temperature, people walking their dogs, lights on, jazz music playing from various apartments, people continuing to eat and drink on the terraces..... Longer days and an eating and sleeping schedule unique only to Spain mean that there is almost always time for everything....

"Cine de Verano" in the Conde Duque Cultural Center

Classical Theater in a Spanish Pueblecito

Amongst Spain's big cities, lie a ton of small "pueblos" which resemble villages. Almost everyone in Spain has a pueblo, a place that either they are from or their family is from. The pueblos are quite small ranging from 600 to 30,000 people. People often go to their pueblos for the holidays or to spend some part of the summer, where they see family and old friends, go out to bars, to the pool, and just hang out living the simple life.

During the weekend of July 10th, I went to a tiny pueblo called Almagro which is in the region of Ciudad Real. The pictures below give an idea of what pueblos generally look like. They are comprised of older buildings with lots of places for eating, drinking, and just hanging out.

This past weekend we went to Almagro for a very exciting reason. Each year there is a very prestigious festival called Almagro Festival de Teatro Clasical. For several weeks, there are endless classical theatre plays which mainly represent la Edad de Oro of Spain, or the Golden Age, when playrights like Lope de Vega and Tirso de Molina were at their maximum. The festival in Almagro also sprinkles in other types of classical theatre. In fact Tim Robbins himself came to direct "El Sueno de un noche del verano," or better known as "A Midsummer Night's Dream."

On the first night of the festival, we saw what turned out to be one of my favorite plays I have ever seen, called "La Carcel," or "The Jail." 

Inside the open-air theater, "Corral de Comedias"

The actors of "La Carcel" during the curtain call.

The play was conducted in Old Castellano, which would be like our version of Shakespeare's English, so naturally a lot of the dialogue went over my head, but the body movements, the facial gestures, and the actor's incredible physical timing led me to absolutely love the production. Taking place hundreds of years ago in a jail, the men within the jail are beside themselves over one man's condemnation to death row. In the end, he makes it. through an incredible series of comedy along the way. The second evening we saw a Zarzuela show, which is a unique style of opera-musical.

In the audience waiting for the Zarzuela show to begin

When we weren't in the theaters, we were relaxing at the community pool and eating and drinking in the central Plaza Mayor. I was in the company of a great group of Spanish friends who are all slightly older than me, in their 40's and 50's. In Spain, 40's and 50s is like 20s in United States. They are intensely alive, they are constantly out and about meeting with friends, and they enjoy socializing until all hours of the evening. With them, I always eat and drink very well as they know the best wines and typical plates of every restaurant. We drank bottles of red wine and ate plates of the typcial cheese from that pueblo.

Copas in the Plaza Mayor after an evening of theatre

An intense feeling of sadness and regret overcame me this weekend, despite the great time. I realized that perhaps I made a mistake in deciding to go back to USA this year. A major part of my decision was that 30 is considered to be quite old in USA and I was feeling pressure to come back and begin a very serious, rigid life. This weekend in Almagro reminded of how young I am and how many more years I have to enjoy, and somehow that in Spain, we can remain much younger much longer. My friends noticed how well Spain suits me and how happy I am here. Perhaps I shouldn't have decided to leave so soon....

La Penúltima

La Penúltima is one of my favorite expressions which is utilized often in Spain. 
It's literal meaning is "the second to last" but it's figurative meaning (in my 
experience) has always been that anything can happen and that that it is up to
us to let fun and surprises come our way. 

This expression is used very often in bars. If you have had a couple of drinks and 
reclaim yourself to say "Ok, La última" or "now let's order the last one," the kind
waiter or whomever your company is will always say "No, la PENúltima." I adore
this expression and this style of being because it means that we can never
proclaim the last because we never know what will actually happen. I can't
remember how many times my "penúltima" turned into an entire night out meeting
new people after having had the intention of one single afternoon drink, or
leading to becoming a "regular" in yet another friendly neighborhood establishment.

"La penúltima" has been the cause of some of my greatest days in Spain

and some of my dearest friends who were met completely unexpectedly.

I just returned to Madrid yesterday for La Penúltima time as a Madrid resident. I returned from nine days in Portugal, 

and this is now my last little stint in Madrid before moving to USA. I always love returning
 to Madrid after trips, and when I arrived in Plaza Cibeles after this Portuguese adventure
, I realized that it was the last time I would feel the thrill of returning to my Madrileno 
home... but then, I reminded myself that of course it isn't the last time. It is La Penúltima! 
You never what the future will bring, as this joyous expression has taught me.

This is my final week in my adorable, historic studio apartment in the dead center of the 

city. For this reason, I would like to take a moment to honor all of the fun times that have 

taken place here. My charming little studio has hosted my 29th birthday gathering, 

numerous dinner parties and wine nights, and several ladies book club events. For as 

small as it is, its character and warmth are mighty, and it has endured red wine stains on 

the white walls, chairs, and couch... stains as memories of great shared moments 
among friends.

The living area + "bedroom alcove" in the back. You don't find too many apartments with well-preserved wooden beams

The kitchen area. Small but so functional.

My 29th birthday celebration in my humble abode.. an abundance of wine and laughs

"Fancy wine and apps night"

No Work and All Play....

It has been an entire week since I returned to Madrid from San Diego. The week has been a whirlwind of seeing friends, wandering the city, plenty of play, and feeling elated... This overall elation could be that I am completely free, and have never quite had this opportunity before in Madrid. Of course, I am loving the city, my friends, and everything about my life here even more than ever.. why is it so typical of humans to love something the most when we know it is fleeting?

The following pictures are from my first day of official vacation, last Friday. I awoke with pure glee, excitement to do everything I have ever wanted here and to peruse and wander without any hurry.

Chueca, the famous gay neighborhood, was whizzing with excitement for what was to be the much-anticipated Gay Pride weekend. The Gay pride parade in Madrid is the biggest in Europe, and last year was considered to be the biggest in the world. Spain is always ready for a party. Rainbow colors everywhere, gay couples vacationing from all of the world to take part in the spectacular parade and festivities of the weekend.

I didn't actually attend the parade because that many people tend to overwhelm me, plus with the inconceivable heat that has overtaken Madrid, standing amidst so many bodies didn't feel like the most appealing option. I did have to cross through the parade to get to a dinner reservation, and by the time I made it to the other side was twenty minutes late..... oh well, it was worth it for a quick piece of the world-famous celebration.

Wine bottles designed specifically for the Gay Pride weekend. As I was admiring them in the window, the store owner came out to invite me to a glass of the wine and tell me all about his vineyard and this very wine that he and his father produce themselves.

Restaurants, stores, government buildings boasting colorful flags in celebration...

Even this historic government building which was once the headquarters of Francisco Franco's Fascist regime proudly sporting a rainbow flag

One of many floats in the endless parade